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22-02-2017 19:17:39

 
   

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HOME >> #CRAGS>> #SAN VITO LO CAPO
 
SAN VITO LO CAPO (ITA)
CLIMBING

 

 

Reportage a cura di Anna Gonzalez
Photo: © Anna Gonzalez

 

San Vito First Impressions
A quick spring climbing trip to one of the Mediteraneanís climbing hot spots.
   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've always wanted to go climbing in Sicily so when my friend Mario invited me to tag along on a trip I said yes even though April is definitely not the ideal month to climb there. Climbing in the sun was out of the question so we were limited on crags and we got up early to beat the heat. Climbers looking to climb harder grades would want to come in the winter.
The climbing was really nice but everything I heard about rock quality, air between bolts and old material is true. I humbly suggest that they organize a rebolting festival at San Vito. Seriously there are so many routes so close to the sea I think it would take a festival of equippers to get a lot done.

We should all do our part . . .

Bring 10 quick links (maillon) in your luggage to leave at the chains, extra cordalette to add to anchors as there is often old rope not a chain and a stick clip. First bolts are often high. What you don't use you can donate at the climbing bar in San Vito.
Now with that aside let me say I would still go back and climb there. Nuova Ossessione was an awesome wall and I didnít get to see a lot of walls like Crown of Aragon that were too sunny.

The best part of the trip for me (apart from getting in shape on some nice routes with friends) were the people. Super friendly and smiles are free (unlike in some other Italian towns we all know and love). April tourists are always welcomed warmly and being American there was always an easy point to start a conversation because almost everyone in San Vito has a relative living in the States.

I havenít mentioned the coffee yet. Macchiato freddo just the way I like it. Almond cookies everywhere mmmmm.

And of course the seafood. Do not leave San Vito without trying this pasta dish: Busiata con Ricci.

We ate at a restaurant called, A Lapara in San Vito almost every night. Recommended menu: Antipasti - bianchetti fritti, caponata, cozze, panissa, polpette di pesce. Primo - Busiata con i Ricci (homemade pasta shrimp, clams and sea urchin sauce) Secondo - spiedini del mare (seafood shish kebabs).

     

            

 

Day 1 Never Sleeping Wall and Parco Cerriolo

First day on! We did some really nice tufa climbing warm ups but the Never Sleeping wall was seeping from the back side so we switched to Parco Cerriolo. Never Sleeping is bolted long so slippery conditions can be disconcerting. I heard it gets wet during the night because there is a cave behind it. The parking seemed like an optimal place to sleep in your van or camper. Nice range of grades. A good wall for cloudy days or in cooler weather.

 

     

     

Never Sleeping Wall Grades from 5b - 8a
Parco Cerriolo is 5min by car from Never Sleeping and was less wet on the vertical side. Both walls have flat parking areas so parents bring their kids to the parking but not to the crag.

     

 


Parco Cerriolo
Grades from 6a to 8b+
Inconsistency between the guide book and the map on the grade of Porcospino.


Day 2 Grotta del Cavallo 7a+ Archeotalpa. Bouldery.



       
 

The view is lovely. The cave is a cave. I like caves though. Balu', Yoghi e Bubu 7b+ was super fun but the chain needs a locker of some sort and the beginning is bolted long. Bring a stick clip. It gets slippery close to the sea. Grades from
Grotta del Cavallo again a good range of grades 5a-7c+. Stayed out of the sun. Good place to bring non climbers; they can go to the sea.


Day 3 Cattedrale nel deserto

I think this wall is not being climbed regularly. The path was hard to find and the chains are old. I decided not to climb there after the first route Calcarea 6b great moves but the chain is in need of replacement. Too scary for me.
In addition the cows have taken over the base of the crag. I'm used to goat poop but cow crap is just a whole other level! Although this wall is definitely a point of reference in the history of the island's climbing, we left because of the chains, the slippery conditions and the cow poop.





Day 4 Nuova Ossesione route: Genoma Poco Fortunato 7b+



    



My favorite wall of this trip. Recently bolted bolts were quite close and chains were in good shape. Went into the shade at 1pm (4.2016) the routes are long so being in three we didn't do a lot of pitches. Grades from 5c-7b+
I was super pleased to flash Genoma Poco Fortunato 7b+ and I think it's more interesting and less height dependent than Una Precisa Danza of the same grade.
My friend Bat said Scussasi 7a+ and Stringi il tuo an 7a+ were bellissimi. 
Here's a photo of the parking:



    

Cartolina utile
 


There are some inconsistencies between different guide books. While this map doesn't give directions to the crags the topos of the crags themselves are very good.


       

                                     Sanetti 7b+ Balķ yoghi e bubu                                Mario Battista 7a+ Scussasi




Day 5 Sinistra Pietraia

Easy approach for our 1/2 day of climbing before our 5pm flight from Trapani to Genova. Range of grades: 6b+-8a+

 


Park under the pine trees off the road. I only did a few routes. They all looked really nice. I was happy to onsight Seltsam Ammutende Volls Packen 7b really nice steep climbing with a great view from the chains. Ermanno and Mario said Rosso e Nero 6b was awesome. San Vito has a lot of good quality routes in the 6s.
Ringraziamenti



Many thanks to the great people of San Vito, my friends Bat and Ermanno and the bolters of San Vito for a great vacation.
Ringrazio la bellissima gente di San Vito, i miei amici Bat e Ermanno e i chiodatori di San Vito per una vacanza fantastica.






What to bring:
A stick clip
80 meter thin rope like the Sterling Nano or Sterling Aero
www.SterlingRope
Liquid chalk
Tweezers lots of prickly plants
Leaver biners
Quick links (maillon) to add, leave or donate
Cordalette to add to the older anchors
Material Inox to donate to San Vito Bolting
Your favorite pair of FiveTens

 

   

   
   
   
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